Transitional wool coat

We have called this a Transitional coat because it combines style features from the war years with those of Paris fashion in the post war era. At the waist and hip line this coat has the ‘new look’ shape proposed by Christian Dior in 1947. The waist is nipped and the hip curves are supported and accentuated by the positioning on the inside of the coat of ‘hip pads’ made of buckram and filled with wadding. However, despite the curved cut of the shoulder pads mean that these remain sharply defined and square rather than soft, forward and rounded.

Read more about Gus Fisher and the El Jay label in the New Zealand Fashion Museum publication Looking Terrific: The story of El Jay.


Credit: Image courtesy of Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, Wellington, GH016188
Copyright: This image has CC BY-NC-ND 4.0
Garment type: Coat
Material: Black wool crepe with cotton velvet collar and cuffs and braid trim
Features: Curved seams over the hips create a rounded shape
Colour: Black
Label: El Jay
Date: Circa 1949