Rosemary Whitehead Brown and black slub silk overcoat, 1986

Rosemary Whitehead created this coat design in her third year of her degree at the New Zealand College of Fashion. They had to do a tailored garment with horsehair interlining, and welt buttonholes. She chose this textured slub silk with alternating horizontal brown and black stripes woven in, and a black, very soft lambskin leather to create the epaulettes, buttons, buttonholes, welt pockets and tabs on the cuffs. The coat has a slim, straight silhouette but includes a deep vent in the centre back to allow for movement; this combined with the heavy drape of the fabric creates movement when the coat is worn.

 

Not only interested in fashion design, Rosemary was also a musician at this time, and wore this coat in a series of publicity photoshoots for the band she was in during the late '80s called Drone.

Details

Photographer: Denise Baynham
Credit: Garment loan courtesy of Rosemary Whitehead
Copyright: Creative Commons BY-NC-ND 4.0 Licence
Credit: Photographs courtesy of Rosemary Whitehead.
Copyright: Images © Rosemary Whitehead.
Designer: Rosemary Whitehead
Maker: Rosemary Whitehead
Manufacturing location: Grey Lynn, Auckland
Garment type: Long overcoat
Material: Black and brown striped woven slub raw silk, black lambskin leather
Features: Square shoulders, straight silhouette, double-breasted with short collar, epaulettes, cuff tabs, buttons buttonholes, welt pockets back belt and appliqué detail all in black leather, back vent
Colour: Brown, black
Last published: February 2025
Label: Rosemary Whitehead
Date: 1986