Blue linen pleat coat

Nicole Wesseling was inspired by Zen Buddhism and its connection to wabi-sabi – the Japanese art of finding beauty in imperfection – when she designed her Spring/Summer 2014 collection, Zen. "It focuses on using natural fabrics and dyes to visually represent the lifestyle within Zen Buddhism. Conceptually it draws attention to the pollution and health effects caused by the use of synthetic dyes and explores zero waste and subtraction cutting as alternatives to traditional techniques." The 'Pleat jacket' is hand dyed using natural indigo. All seams have been bound open with an ivory wool blend, this is the same fabric used to construct the 'Pintuck pant'. The outer edge of the garment has been bound and hand stitched in a contrasting thread. Large pleats that are stitched in place to the waist feature at the back of the jacket. The hem is left raw and resembles points at the back and front of the garment. This piece can also be worn closed as a dress coat. The 'Pintuck pant' features two pintucks at the front of each leg that meet at a tuck at the hem of the garment. The hem is faced. The trouser features hip pockets and back welt pockets as well as a rayon lining. The trousers have a waistband, fly zip and a hidden dome closure. The 'Building block cami' has been cut from one pattern piece, features diagonal side seams that wrap towards the front of the body and does not have any shoulder seams. The neck and armholes have been bound and the hem has been finished using a cover seamer.


Credit: Garment loan courtesy of Nicole Wesseling
Copyright: Creative Commons BY-NC-ND 4.0 Licence
Designer: Nicole Wesseling
Manufacturing location: Auckland
Garment type: Sleeveless coat
Material: Linen
Colour: Indigo
Label: Nicole Wesseling
Date: 2014